Rosehip oil

What it is

Rosehip oil is pressed from the seeds inside the fruit of wild roses, mainly Rosa canina in Europe and Rosa rubiginosa (rosa mosqueta) in South America. It is a thin amber oil made mostly of polyunsaturated fat: roughly 35 to 55% linoleic acid and 15 to 25% alpha-linolenic acid, with vitamin E-type tocopherols and a trace of orange carotenoids^{2, 3}. Claims that it contains a retinoid-like vitamin A are overstated: carotenoids, which the body can convert to vitamin A, make up around a hundredth of a percent of the oil⁴, and no study shows it acts like a retinoid on skin.

What the evidence says

Evidence: limited. A 2024 review found only two small trials, both on fresh surgical scars, plus composition data; none for acne marks, old scars or dark spots⁵.

The better-known of the two followed 108 people after minor skin surgery. Seventy-six applied pure rosehip seed oil to the scar twice a day for six weeks; 32 used nothing. At twelve weeks the treated scars were less red and discoloured and fewer were thinned or sunken, while raised scars were no different¹. The study did not report blinding, had no placebo oil and was paid for by a manufacturer, so it is encouraging rather than conclusive. The review concluded there is not enough evidence to recommend it for wounds⁵. Its high linoleic acid content fits what is known about barrier support from similar oils, the best reason to expect help for dry or healing skin².

For dark marks left after spots there is no direct evidence; they are pigment, not scar tissue, and what helps is sunscreen and patience, as our guide to dark spots explains. For pitted or raised acne scars, see what helps acne scars; oils are not among the proven options.

How people use it

• On a healed scar: two or three drops massaged in twice daily once the wound has fully closed, for two to three months.
• As a night-time face oil: a few drops pressed over moisturiser on dry or mature skin.
• Storage: oils this high in polyunsaturated fat go rancid faster than saturated ones. Buy small dark bottles, keep them cool and dark, and discard the oil once it smells sharp or crayon-like.

Cautions

• Patch test on the inner forearm twice a day for seven to ten days before using it on the face.
• Some people with oily or acne-prone skin find it clogs pores. Start every other night and stop if congestion appears.
• Never apply it to an open wound or a scar that is still weeping or crusted.
• Rancid oil can irritate skin; if in doubt, replace it.
• It does not treat keloids, deep pitted scars or melasma; a dermatologist can offer options with far stronger evidence.