Jojoba oil

What it is

Jojoba oil is pressed from the seeds of a desert shrub native to the south-western United States and Mexico. Although sold as an oil, it is chemically a liquid wax: about 98% wax esters rather than the triglyceride fats of olive or sunflower oil¹. That structure is close to human sebum, which is why it spreads easily, sinks in without a greasy film and suits both dry and oily skin¹. Its own vitamin E-type antioxidants make it unusually slow to go rancid¹.

What the evidence says

Evidence: limited. Good laboratory data for moisturising; only one uncontrolled human acne study, which combined jojoba with clay.

As a moisturiser, jojoba has a reasonable case. It reduces water loss without sealing the skin completely, and reviews list it among the plant oils with a plausible role in supporting a damaged barrier in eczema, seborrhoeic dermatitis and acne-prone skin^{1, 2}.

For acne the evidence is thin. In the most-quoted study, people with mild acne used a clay and jojoba oil mask two or three times a week for six weeks; among the 133 who returned complete counts, spots fell by about half³. There was no comparison group, people counted their own spots, and the clay may have done much of the work, so treat it as a hint. Jojoba is often called unlikely to clog pores. That reputation rests on chemistry and user experience rather than trials, and any oil can block pores for some people.

How people use it

• As a light moisturiser: two or three drops pressed into damp skin after cleansing, morning or night.
• As a carrier for essential oils: one drop of tea tree oil in a teaspoon (5 ml) of jojoba gives roughly 1%. Our natural acne care guide explains why neat essential oils are a bad idea.
• As a gentle cleansing oil: massaged over sunscreen or make-up, then removed with a soft cloth and your usual cleanser.
• In a weekly clay mask: a teaspoon stirred in makes the mask less drying, as in the acne study³.

Cautions

• Patch test on the inner forearm twice a day for seven to ten days. Allergic reactions are rare but have been reported in highly allergy-prone people¹.
• If you are prone to blackheads, introduce it slowly and stop if new congestion appears.
• It does not treat moderate or severe acne; painful or scarring spots need a pharmacist or dermatologist.
• Choose cold-pressed, unrefined oil; heavily bleached jojoba loses the antioxidants that keep it stable¹.
• Keep it away from the eyes and off broken skin.